Water Quality

Goldfish are notorious for producing a large amount of waste. While some of this waste (especially fecal material) may be due to a diet that is too high in protein, this is not the only type of waste that goldfish produce. Goldfish secrete harmful chemicals through their gills as well, which can quickly reduce their water quality. To help prevent your goldfish from dying unexpectedly, it’s important to closely monitor the water quality. Replace at least 10% of the water in your goldfish’s tank once per week, using a siphon to remove waste from the bottom of the tank.

Feeding

Goldfish require a diet that is slightly lower and protein, while higher in carbohydrates than the diet of most other fish. This is because goldfish aren’t able to completely digest a diet that is high in protein. To give your goldfish a proper diet, be sure to purchase either a flake or pellet food that is specifically designed to be fed to goldfish. Since goldfish are opportunistic eaters, they generally will overeat if given too much food. As a general rule, only give your goldfish as much food as they can consume in a period of 3 – 4 minutes.

Types of Goldfish

Due to selective breeding, there are many different types of goldfish that can be kept both in aquariums and in outdoor ponds. Most of the variations are referred to as “fancy goldfish”, and are not as tolerant of varying temperatures or water quality. In addition to this, some goldfish that have been selectively bred to display a specific body shape may have swimbladder problems, which may affect that fish’s ability to swim. In addition to this, certain “telescope eye” goldfish have notably poor eyesight, and may not be able to compete for food with some other goldfish types. When selecting the right type of goldfish for your tank, it’s important to choose carefully.

FRESHWATER OR SALT WATER?

Depending on the type of fish that you own, you will either be caring for a saltwater or freshwater tank. Though it’s true that saltwater tanks are significantly more complicated to maintain than freshwater tanks, this doesn’t mean that you can ignore the needs of your freshwater fish. The pH, temperature and nitrite levels of your freshwater tank are very important in caring for your fish’s health.

For saltwater tanks, you will most likely be using “live rock” in your tank. Live rock can greatly help the health of your tank, as long as it is used properly. Live rock often needs to “cure” in your tank for a few weeks before your tank is ready to host saltwater fish and other organisms.

HEALTH PROBLEMS

Caring for a fish involves being aware of some of the most common health problems that can affect fish. For example, fin rot is extremely common in tanks that have a high level of bacteria. If you notice a change in your fish’s behavior or appearance, this may be a sign that your fish is suffering from a health problem. Educate yourself about some common fish diseases, as well as the symptoms they usually cause in fish. In general, keeping your tank clean is a great way to prevent potentially serious health problems in pet fish.

TANK CLEANING

Cleaning your fish’s tank is one of the most important things that you can do to ensure that your fish remain healthy. Many people believe that the water in a fish’s tank needs to be completely replaced in order for the tank to be properly cleaned. In reality, this is not the case! Replacing about 20% of the water in your tank on a weekly basis will go a long way towards ensuring that your fish tank remains fairly clean. It’s best to siphon off the water at the bottom of the tank when cleaning, since this is where the most debris and waste collects.

DWARF PUFFER FISH
The Dwarf Puffer Fish is a species of fish that thrives in freshwater environments. Many people associate puffer fish with saltwater environments, but this is not the case with the Dwarf Puffer. It’s important to remember that Dwarf Puffer Fish can be a bit aggressive, so choose the other fish in your aquarium carefully.  Most Dwarf Puffer Fish will do well when given at least 5 gallons of “space” designated for their territory.

KOI FISH
Koi fish are most commonly associated with Asian culture, mostly due to the origin of the Koi in Central Europe and Asia. They are featured as design elements in many paintings, fish pendants and even stone sculptures. As a pet fish, the Koi is fairly low-maintenance. There are many different color variations for Koi fish, which make them a really cool fish to have in an aquarium. However, it’s important to remember that some Koi can grow to be fairly large, and may require a fairly large fish tank.

PARROTFISH
If you have a fairly large saltwater tank, you may want to look in to purchasing a Parrotfish for your tank. Parrotfish can grow to be fairly large, some breeds even reaching up to 4.5 feet in length! For the majority of captive Parrotfish, 2 feet is the average maximum size for most breeds. Caring for Parrotfish can be a full-time job, especially since Parrotfish cannot be kept in a reef tank. Parrotfish have a habit of destroying coral, which can be especially destructive in a closed aquarium environment.

MARINE ANGELFISH
Not to be confused with freshwater angelfish, Marine Angelfish thrive in saltwater environments. Most Marine Angelfish are characterized with bright colors and striking patterns. Marine Angelfish tend to be territorial, so should not be kept in groups in any aquarium.

WHEN IT’S BEST TO EUTHANIZE A FISH

There are certain diseases that can affect fish that will sometimes progress to the point that they become incurable. An example of this is dropsy, which is usually only visually detected in a fish after their internal organs have already been severely damaged. Since dropsy may be contagious to other fish in the tank, it’s often recommended that you isolate the fish that has become infected. If you notice an epidemic of a lethal disease spreading in your tank, it’s often best to simply euthanize any infected fish as soon as possible, in order to prevent further spreading of the disease.

HUMANE METHOD #1 – ANESTHETIC OVERDOSE

This method uses a substance called Tricaine Methanesulfonate, or TMS. Commercially, this is a substance that goes by the name of MS222 or Finquel. Most pet care supply stores carry this substance, and it can be purchased online for approximately $10 – $25. According to most aquatic fish experts, euthanizing the fish can be accomplished simply by doubling the dose that you would normally use for anesthetizing the fish. Since this substance is FDA approved, it has been shown by many people to be a painless, effective way to humanely euthanize a fish.

HUMANE METHOD #2 – CLOVE OIL AND VODKA

Contrary to popular belief, the use of clove oil alone is usually not enough to safely euthanize a fish. Also, it’s very important to remember that clove oil should not be used at the same time as the vodka.

1. Begin by removing the fish from the main tank (if you haven’t already) and placing them in a small container with some tank water. Make note of how much tank water you use to keep your fish, as this is important for maintaining a proper ratio.
2. Fill a small jar (such as a baby food bottle) with tank water. Put one to two drops of pure clove oil into the jar, shake vigorously.
3. Pour ¼ of this mixture into the fish’s enclosure. After approximately ten minutes, the fish will fall asleep, sinking to the bottom of the container.
4. Once the fish is sleeping, add pure white grain alcohol that is approximately 20 to 20% of the total water volume in the fish’s enclosure. Wait 20 minutes.
5. Carefully check the fish’s movements after 20 minutes. If there is no movement in the fish’s gills, they have quietly expired. If they still have some gill movement, add more grain alcohol until their movement ceases.

LYMPHOCYSTIS

Technically, lymphocystis is classified as a viral infection that affects the cells of a pet fish. The most common symptom is large white growths on a fish’s body, sometimes being cauliflower-like in appearance. Though this is one of the few viral infections that can affect fish, it is relatively rare. There is no cure for lymphocystis, though isolation of infected fish usually results in remission of the disease.

DROPSY

Dropsy is a bacterial infection that can affect some pet fish. Dropsy is actually caused by a bacterial infection that affects a fish’s kidneys. The most common symptom of dropsy in pet fish is severe bloating of the body from fluid buildup, and renal failure. Protrusion of the scales is also seen in some advanced cases of dropsy. Since this is a bacterial infection, it can be treated by adding an antibiotic medication to a fish’s food. Some common antibiotics used to treat dropsy in pet fish include chloromycetin and tetracycline.

TAIL & FIN ROT

The condition most commonly known as “fin rot” is a bacterial infection that causes a ragged appearance of a fish’s tail and fins. This condition is most commonly caused by poor conditions in a fish’s tank, resulting in severe bacterial growth in the tank. Tail & fin rot can also be caused by aggressive behavior of certain types of fish, which may nip at the tail or fins of other fish in the tank. Tail & fin rot can also be caused by tuberculosis, in some cases. For treatment of tail & fin rot, antibiotics are the best course of action. Antibiotics can be added to the water of a fish’s tank, along with being added to a fish’s daily feeding portions.

TUBERCULOSIS

Tuberculosis in pet fish is caused by a bacterium called Mycobacterium piscium. The most common symptoms of tuberculosis in fish include lethargy, pale appearance, ‘hollow-belly’, visible skin ulcers, loss of appetite and loss of scales or fin tissue. The most common cause of tuberculosis in pet fish is overcrowding, or poor tank conditions. If a fish is living in a tank that has poor water quality, they become much more susceptible to developing tuberculosis. Certain species of fish are more prone to developing tuberculosis, as they are very sensitive to any changes to their environment. The most common treatment method used for tuberculosis in pet fish is treatment with Vitamin B-6 and Kanamycin for approximately thirty days.

SYMPTOMS

Identifying ich in pet fish is usually very simple, due to the visible symptoms of this condition. The primary symptom is the appearance of small white spots on a fish’s gills and body. In certain cases, these white spots may only be present in localized areas, such as around the gills. This disease is progressive, and as a fish becomes more uncomfortable, they may try to ‘itch’ their body by scraping against the sides of the tank. In more advanced cases of ich, a fish will develop respiratory distress, loss of appetite, severe agitation and eventual death.

RISK FACTORS

Though there is no dormant period with the Ich parasite infection, there are certain factors that may increase the likelihood that a fish will become infected with ich. Factors such as reduction of water quality, stress and changes in water temperature can all contribute to a fish becoming infected with the ich parasite. In addition to this, if a fish’s immune system is substantially repressed by infection with another health condition, this can also increase the likelihood that a fish will be infected with ich.

TREATMENT

Treatment for ich in fish is commonly supplemented with the raising of the tank’s temperature to 82-86 degrees fahrenheit. This temperature change should be done gradually, as to not upset the normal life cycle of the fish in the infected tank. This is usually combined with other treatment methods, such as chemical treatments. Examples of chemicals used to treat ich in pet fish include Quinine Sulfate, chelated copper, formalin, copper sulfate and malachite green. In some cases, diluted salts may be used to increase the salt level of a tank so that it is not a tolerable environment for the parasite that causes ich.

PREVENTION

If you are caring for a home aquarium with pet fish, chances are that you will have to deal with an ich infection at some point in time. However, there are certain measures that you can take which will greatly reduce the chance that your fish will become infected with ich. When purchasing fish from a pet store, try to examine them for any signs of ich parasites. Always put new fish in a quarantine tank for a period of time after purchase, in case they are carrying any parasites. If any of your fish begin to show signs of ich, it is very important that you remove them from the tank and place them in immediate quarantine.

CAUSES

Fish dropsy is usually caused by a bacterial infection, though the direct cause of this bacterial infection can be slightly more difficult to identify. Most bacterial infections in fish are the result of contaminated food or by the growth of bacteria in unclean aquarium conditions. It’s also possible that a fish may develop the symptoms of dropsy after experiencing kidney failure, liver failure or heart failure.

SYMPTOMS

The most noticeable symptom of dropsy in fish is a visibly bloated abdomen. This is caused by excess fluid building up in a fish’s body, which causes the resulting area to become swollen. Most fish afflicted with dropsy develop a ‘pinecone-like’ appearance, as the swelling of their body causes their scales to begin to protrude from their bodies. Loss of appetite, lethargy, sunken eyes and discoloration are all symptoms that may also be associated with dropsy in fish.

TREATMENT

The treatment methods for dropsy in fish usually involve the administration of antibiotics, though this may not be entirely effective. The best way to administer an antibiotic medication to a fish with dropsy is to add the medication directly to a fish’s daily food portion. As long as your fish is still eating, they will consume the medicated food before the antibiotic ingredient dissipates into the water. If you are feeding your fish a live or frozen diet, try to maintain a 1% ratio of the antibiotic ingredient to the amount of food. For live food, it may be necessary to prepare a diluted solution of the antibiotic and water, and then insert this solution directly into live food organisms by using a syringe. Try to only feed afflicted fish the medicated food, as they should already have been kept in a quarantine tank.

PROGNOSIS

In general, many fish afflicted with dropsy end up dying from this condition. The reason for this is that by the time their abdomen has become visibly swollen, internal damage from the excess fluid buildup is usually beyond repair. This is the main reason why it is important to diagnose and treat this condition in your pet fish as soon as possible. If you are able to catch a dropsy infection at an early stage, you will greatly increase the chances that your fish will respond well to treatment.

DROPSY
Dropsy (known as ‘Edema’ in humans) is a condition that results from a bacterial infection through unsanitary living conditions. Though dropsy is most commonly caused by a bacterial infection, it may also be caused by other environmental variants. Though dropsy in fish is not extremely contagious, it’s still very important to quarantine any infected fish as soon as you identify this condition. The most common symptom of dropsy in fish is a noticeable swelling of a fish’s abdomen.

TUBERCULOSIS
Tuberculosis in fish is caused by a bacterial organism that thrives in poor water quality conditions. Tuberculosis is commonly seen in fish from pet stores, or fish that live in extremely crowded conditions. The best treatment for tuberculosis in fish is a thorough tank cleaning, though prevention of transmission may sometimes require that you destroy the infected fish before the infection spreads to the rest of your aquarium. However, this is usually only necessary if other treatment methods are ineffective.

RED PEST
Red Pest is a bacterial infection that usually manifests as red, bloody streaks that appear on a fish. These reddish streaks sometimes progress to becoming open ulcerations. Since this is an internal bacterial infection, most topical treatment methods will not be effective for this condition. The best course of treatment is to add a small amount of antibiotic to your fish’s daily feeding ration. To help improve your fish’s chances of surviving this condition, it’s also recommended that you clean and disinfect your tank.

FUNGAL

SAPROLEGNIA
Saprolegnia is a type of freshwater fungus that can sometimes affect aquarium fish in freshwater tanks. When saprolegnia infects a fish, it causes a type of fungal infection known as mycoses. This type of fungus thrives in cooler water, and may sometimes be treated by raising the temperature of the tank by a few degrees. Infection with saprolegnia is often fatal to fish, due to the high reproductive rate, extensive cellular necrosis and severe epidermal damage caused by this fungus. Treatment for this type of fungus usually involves the additive of phenoxethol to distilled water at a 1% ratio. Phenoxethol may be available for purchase at some pet care supply stores, usually located in the fish care section. This solution is then added to the aquarium, or the area where the infected fish is being kept.

ICHTHYOSPORIDIUM
Ichthyosporidium is a fungus that is slightly unique, since it attacks a fish’s internal organs. This fungal infection usually spreads from the kidneys and liver into most of a fish’s other internal systems. The most common symptoms associated with this condition include external cysts, open sores, hollow belly and sluggishness. However, when a fish begins to display one or several of these symptoms, the fungal infection has usually progressed to an advanced point in which it can no longer be treated. The best course of treatment is to add certain medications to a fish’s daily food ration, such as chloromycetin or phenoxethol. However, these are fairly dangerous treatments, and may not ensure the survival of your fish.

INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL PARASITES

Because of the plethora of parasite species that can affect aquarium fish, it’s best to first group them into two specific categories:  ectoparasites and endoparasites. Endoparasites are organisms that infect a fish by infiltrating their internal organs and tissues. Ectoparasites are parasitic organisms that thrive by dwelling on the outside of a fish, such as on their gills, skin and fins. For the most part, the majority of parasitic organisms that affect fish are ectoparasites, with the occurrence of endoparasites being slightly rare in aquarium fish. In order for a fish to become infected with an endoparasite, it usually requires that they first ingest an organism that is serving as the intermediary host for the parasite, such as an insect or snail. Because of this, it is especially important to watch for parasitic infections when supplementing your fish’s diet with live food ingredients.

DANGERS OF PARASITES

The most commonly cited problem associated with parasitic infections is their incredible reproductive potential. By the time you are able to identify a parasitic infection in one fish, it is possible that the parasites have already reproduced to a point where they are currently in the process of infecting your entire tank. In an aquarium environment, fish are in close contact with all other inhabitants of the tank, causing parasitic infections to spread relatively quickly. Since parasites in aquarium tanks are easily able to transfer from host to host, they have extremely high survival rates in an aquarium environment.

SECONDARY INFECTIONS

In many cases, a parasitic infection in pet fish is also associated with development of some secondary infections. These secondary infections are mostly bacterial, and are usually the end result of feeding activities of parasites on a fish. Since many parasites either infiltrate the exterior portion of a fish’s skin through hooks, teeth or caustic skin-dissolving substances, this often results in open sores developing around the area affected by the parasitic infection. The irritation from these bacterial infections can sometimes cause a fish to produce excess mucus, sometimes resulting in respiratory problems. If a bacterial infection develops in addition to a parasitic infection, it may be necessary to treat with antibiotics. Since treatment for parasitic infections sometimes also uses certain antibiotics, it is very important to consult a veterinarian or fish care specialist about the best combination of medications that will work the best for treating your tank.

EXOPHTHALMIA

Exophthalmia can generally be referred to as a noticeable ‘bulging’ of a fish’s eyes. This is classified more as a medical syndrome than a disease, though there are some treatment options available. Symptoms of advanced exophthalmia  include partial or complete dislocation of the eye from its orbit and compression of the optic nerve with eventual blindness.

CORNEAL ULCERS

Corneal ulcers develop on a fish’s corneal area. The cornea is a protective layer that covers the eye area of most fish. When there are any disruptions on a fish’s cornea, an ulcer may begin to develop. This condition can become progressively worse, and may even eventually cause the eye to rupture. The most common treatment for corneal ulcers involves antibiotics that are applied directly to a fish’s eyes. However, corneal ulcers in fish are often treated with supplemental medications that are added directly to aquarium water in proper portions.

CATARACTS

Cataracts in fish are relatively rare, though may still be present in some cases of eye conditions. Technically, a cataract is a clouding of the crystalline lens of a fish’s eye. This reduces vision, and may inhibit a fish’s ability to properly feed. Cataracts are most commonly caused by a nutrient deficiency, though may also result from severe injury or trauma. Preventing cataracts in fish usually involves common sense procedures, such as ensuring that your pet fish is being fed a balanced diet.

CORNEAL EDEMA

Corneal edema is a condition that usually occurs when a fish’s cornea becomes inflamed or irritated. This results in excessive fluid buildup, which contributes to an opaque appearance of a fish’s eye. This is sometimes caused by a bacterial infection, and may be able to be treated with proper administration of certain antibiotic medications.

MISSING GLOBE

In some cases, a fish’s eye may deteriorate or become damaged beyond repair. This can be caused by any number of factors, though is most commonly seen in fish that are afflicted with tuberculosis, or fish that have recently sustained trauma to their head area. Eventually, the open socket of a fish’s eye completely fills with scar tissue after the damage has been repaired. Fish are able to function on a semi-normal level with only one operating eye, as long as you take measures to ensure that they receive proper nutrition. When feeding your fish, be sure that a fish with a missing globe is not being prevented from eating by other fish. If necessary, isolate this fish for designated feeding times, or give them their own quarantined tank.